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Thread: Trailer Issue

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    242

    Default

    I will have to try loading them one nose into the V, second one facing the rear door ramp. I backed sleds on once, ramp is not very steep. I think that the V is too narrow for me to gain very much.

    Lighting makes the same trailer with the box being 2 feet longer. Had I known that then, I would have bought one. I think that would help and things not so tight. Right now, I do not have to lift hem around very much. Not sure my back would deal real good with backing them in.

    Now, when I put the second sled in, it's right front ski fits under the foot rest on the first sled. I think with as narrow as it is, when I tried pulling the first one in and backed the second one in, the first sled was too wide for the second sled to fit

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    North of Harrisburg
    Posts
    5

    Default Trailer Sway

    Another thing to keep in mind is the use of a drop hitch. The trailer needs to be as level as possible. Air flow over or under trailer will affect how it tracks behind tow unit

  3. #13

    Default

    I have to ask , is this trailer 8.5 ft wide , how are you getting this measurement, if the axle is NOT under the deck?
    as I have never seen a 8.5 wide trailer have wheels outside the enclosure, it would be ILLEGAL, or an over-sized load deal.
    is it 8.5 wide at the outside edge of the exposed tires and then if so HOW wide is it INSIDE the trailer
    I have both a 8.5 enclosed trailer and a open deck one and 2 sleds fit side by side with room to spare(one sled even has a wider then stock front end on it too and still has room
    can you explain your trailer better?
    maybe we can help with loading better
    as most trailers I know of are either 7.5 or 7 ft wide inside that have ties outside of enclosure!(wheel wells like)

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    242

    Default

    mrbb1.... oh crap... I tried to answer and it got lost. I may have not described it well or you misunderstood. The trailer box is probably about 6' wide. The wheels and fenders are outside of the box. The box sits between the wheels. From outer fender to outer fender it is 8'6" I thought with the box sitting lower and 14 or 15 inch wheels, it would be pretty stable. I even chose not to get the higher ceiling to reduce side winds.

    It appears to be pretty level when hooked up.

    I have a dump trailer with 14" wheels under the box. The bed sits pretty high and you need a long ramp to load anything because how steep it is. However, the trailer is no wider then my truck, so if my truck fits, the trailer fits. It dumps better and last but not least, if I am unloading something by hand, the bed is about waist high so I do not need to bend over.

    anyway... thanks "all" for the ideas... I have some things that I can check out. Unless things do a drastic turn about.. I will probably be traveling next year again.

  5. #15

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Hawkster View Post
    mrbb1.... oh crap... I tried to answer and it got lost. I may have not described it well or you misunderstood. The trailer box is probably about 6' wide. The wheels and fenders are outside of the box. The box sits between the wheels. From outer fender to outer fender it is 8'6" I thought with the box sitting lower and 14 or 15 inch wheels, it would be pretty stable. I even chose not to get the higher ceiling to reduce side winds.

    It appears to be pretty level when hooked up.

    I have a dump trailer with 14" wheels under the box. The bed sits pretty high and you need a long ramp to load anything because how steep it is. However, the trailer is no wider then my truck, so if my truck fits, the trailer fits. It dumps better and last but not least, if I am unloading something by hand, the bed is about waist high so I do not need to bend over.

    anyway... thanks "all" for the ideas... I have some things that I can check out. Unless things do a drastic turn about.. I will probably be traveling next year again.
    This might sound a little crazy but you could take it somewhere and see if the axles could be slid back. Not sure how much it would cost or it's possible but that would increase tongue weight which will help for swaying.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Posts
    162

    Default

    Yes MOVE the axles. This will take care of the problem. I've done numerous trailers. Between 800 and 1200 pending on what we get into.

  7. #17

    Default

    OK so its NOT a 8.5 enclosed trailer, its a 6 ft wide enclosed trailer, thats a BIG difference and explains things
    in your first post you said it was a 8.5 trailer, so, hence my confusion , I gathered all along it wasn't, but had to ask

    MY next question for you will be tires on the trailer, HOW narrow are they and what load rating are they, if there tall and skinny tires with a low load rating they will flex a LOT when side winds hit trailer, and or you get turbulence off large trucks as they pass you or you them !
    there is NO reason to MOVE the axle on your trailer if you can get it loaded correctly(correct tongue weight on truck)
    a better option than moving axles might be a weight distribution hitch set up/sway bars, but you still need to have correct tongue weight , until you know what the tongue weight is at when its loaded on your truck/'s, you will be wagging the tail so to speak and not sure what the cause is
    I am gathering the trailer pulls fine till winds hit, so that should rule out axle not under it in straight(if axle was canted like, out of alignment ,
    it would cause towing issue's and be hyper sensitive to cross winds and such
    you have not said anything on this, so assuming its OK
    I still say your issue is tires and loading it, correctly to have proper tongue weight!
    when most GOOD trailer company's design a SNOWMOBILE Trailer, they take into account where sleds will mostly sit to have proper trailer weight, and all TELL you to maintain"X" tongue weight with there trailers, so it pulls as safe and stable as possible
    MAYBE contact the trailer maker and ask them for some info on what tongue weight should be


    LAST question for you, is this a steel framed trailer or Aluminum one?
    I tow a several thousand miles a yr and have for 30+ yrs, there is a BIG difference in a properly loaded trailer and one not when pulling SAME trailer, as well as having correct tires on it and the truck towing it!(same will be with proper air pressure in tires when LOADED, many folks run lighter air pressures when empty, to get a spfter ride, but then have issues with tire flex from tires being too low on air when towing and having more weight to manage!
    so, check air in trailer tires as well as load rating(same on truck)


    OH and wheel bearings and hubs are good on trailer too, worn hubs with slop will cause wandering too

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    242

    Default

    mrbb1 and others,

    Thank you all for the numerous ideas. I made a list of things that I need to check.... I park my sled several miles from my house, so I cannot just pop out back to check things.

    The axles / tires are in line .... no abnormal wear or scuffing of tires. Tire cold inflation if good.

    I am thinking tongue weight..... the way that the sleds are loaded have to be putting more weight in the back and not on the tongue. Oh, an aluminum frame.

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